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A Nicaraguan Paradise that May Soon Be Lost


Viva Aerobus Airplane


ON THE PLANE RIDE to Nicaragua, I presented my husband, Emilio, with a contract listing the places I wanted him to show me during our time in his native country. We were moving from Miami to the colonial town of Granada for seven months, on an assignment for his job as a coffee trader. Emilio had promised this would be an adventure. But he would be commuting to an office in Managua, the nation’s capital, every day and I feared that changing our year-old daughter’s diapers and writing freelance articles in Granada would be much the same as changing diapers and writing freelance articles in Miami. I wanted Emilio’s word that I’d get to see Nicaragua as a traveler would, to trek to its most intriguing corners. First on my list were the islands of Solentiname.

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